In a museum, climate and light are carefully controlled, art is installed by trained professionals, guards are on patrol, there are no New Year’s Eve parties, no pets, and food and drink are prohibited. A home, as we all know, is different. Still, it is possible to incorporate works of art into your daily life without unduly compromising their safety. When hanging works of art it is always best to hire a professional installer or free-lance conservator, who should not only have access to all the latest hardware and equipment, but should be able to offer advice for the safest placement of art in your home. Here are some of the basic methods professionals use when installing valuable art:
A twenty-pound painting on a ten-pound hook is not a good thing … Paintings that fall off of walls can cause damage to the painting, or to valuable art or antiques situated beneath the painting. Hanging paintings from nails, which can bend down or pull out, is not advisable. Instead, picture hanging hooks, sometimes known as “bulldog” hooks are best, and they should be ones that are rated for at least the weight of the painting (Hooks also do less damage to walls). Two hooks for heavy paintings are recommended, and note that regardless of size, two hooks per painting makes it easier to keep the picture level.
“D” Rings are the safest …. Screw-eyes can work their way out of a frame, bend, or puncture other works of art when leaned against them. A far better system is the use of two “D” rings with a braided wire between them. “D” rings, also known as mirror plate hangers, lie flat and are screwed to the back of the frame. This is preferably done while the frame is empty though if removing the work of art from the frame is too daunting, careful measurement of the depth of the frame in important to avoid puncturing the canvas on the other side with screws that are too long.
Specially designed hooks for earthquake zones …. Depending on where you live, even the proper use of standard bulldog hooks may not be enough. Fortunately, there are now a number of earthquake-proof hanging devices on the market. These steel hooks have either spring-loaded tongues that trap the hanging wire in a closed loop, or complex grooves that prevent a simple upward motion from dislodging the wire. The hooks come in different sizes, with the heavyweight ones designed to be nailed into a stud.
Placement is important … Think carefully about the nature of the activities that take place in each room and have your art installed accordingly. What will that doorknob hit if an exuberant person comes bursting through the door? Is that table or pedestal strong enough to support the weight of the sculpture you are about to place on it? If a favorite painting should fall off the wall, are there protruding points on the sculpture beneath it that could damage the painting? In general, the placement of art takes more careful thought in spaces where people are likely to be preoccupied. In the foyer, your guests will be more focused on getting in or out of their coats than they will on the Ming vase on the pedestal behind them. Avoid such high-traffic areas if possible, or take care to shield works of art with a carefully placed side chair, or hallway table.
Keeping ceiling-hung art on the ceiling, where it belongs … If your mobile or other hanging sculpture is made of anything but feathers or paper you’ll want to make absolutely certain that the hanging device is strong enough to hold it. Screw eye type devices are preferred over open hooks that might allow the line to jump out of the hook if bumped, and the screw must be very firmly seated in a stud. The work should be hung high enough that even your tallest guests will not bang their heads, with particular attention being paid to head room when objects are hung in a stairwell. If the work of art is very heavy, an engineer or builder should verify the load-bearing capacity of your ceiling. And as always, placement is important; avoid placing hanging works of art where gusts of wind from exterior doors might make them swing, or beneath an exercise room, ballroom, or children’s playroom where a lot of bouncing might be going on above.
Clear a path before you move it … It’s best not to move works of art around too much, but when it’s necessary, a path should be cleared from point A to point B before the object is picked up. Only one object should be carried at a time and, as a general rule of thumb, no matter what its weight, if a painting or other work of art is wider than your shoulders, get someone to help you. Paintings should always be carried with the canvas facing you, and belt buckles or other personal items that might cause damage should be removed first.
Art and fireplaces are not a good marriage … that spot over the mantle has long been considered prime real estate for hanging art, but unfortunately it is not advisable to hang valuable paintings above fireplaces; the heat, soot and fluctuating humidity levels that drift upwards will not do your painting any good. Air conditioning or heating ducts should be avoided for similar reasons, and bathrooms with actively used tubs or showers create sudden and excessive dampness that can be harmful.
Weatherproof doesn’t mean damage-proof … Outdoor sculpture may be designed to withstand rain, snow and ice but weed whackers, lawnmowers, bird droppings and sprinklers are another matter. Avoid watering the art while watering the gardens. Sprinklers often spread water horizontally, so that the water can enter areas of the sculpture protected from normal rainfall. Remove bird droppings the sooner the better. Bird droppings become acidic over time and can etch into surfaces. Mowing around outdoor sculpture is also dangerous since small stones and sticks can be thrown up. This is especially important with painted metal items, where a break in the paint layer can cause corrosion problems. It’s best to buffer sculpture with a broad area of mulch to eliminate the need to mow or weed whack too close.
Storage in the home requires a visit now and then …for home storage, avoid garages, attics and basements where heat and humidity fluctuations are dramatic, and where water damage is more likely. Paintings are best stored vertically, sandwiched between two pieces of cardboard and wrapped. If you chose not to wrap, paintings should be stacked face to face and back to back, preferably with a sheet of cardboard separating them. Never store paintings so that the canvases are touching each other. Even very old paint can become slightly tacky in certain climatic conditions, and pigment transfer can occur when you later try to separate the paintings. Sculpture and antiques should be firmly seated on the floor, or on a shelf sturdy enough to hold them and should not be touching any other object. Most importantly, “visit” your art in storage on a regular basis so you will know sooner rather than later if something toppled over, if silverfish have invaded, or if the shower on the floor above is leaking into the storage area.
Home maintenance hazards … Avoid pesticides, foggers, air fresheners or furniture sprays near artworks. During maintenance and renovation work, have paintings and other art removed from a room before painting, plastering, or steam cleaning carpets or wallpaper. Return the artworks only when the walls and floors are completely dry.
Sunlight isn’t any better for art than it is for our skin … With the possible exception of stone, glass and unpainted metal, works of art should not be exposed to direct sunlight, which causes fading and cracking. Use indirect lighting, particularly for paintings and works on paper. Lights that attach to the top of the frame and hang over the picture throw heat onto the painting, and can damage the art if they fall. Indirect sunlight, recessed lighting, or ceiling-mounted spotlights are best for home installations. And those popular halogen lamps emit high levels of damaging ultraviolet light. They should be fitted with an ultraviolet filter when used near light-sensitive materials.
Protecting and preserving your valuable works of art is an ongoing process. It can be made easier if you work with a conservator or art installer to situate your art in the most advantageous positions, in the securest of ways, and then educate your household help and groundskeepers so they know what, and what not, to do. By incorporating these techniques into your life, you and your art can co-exist in a damage-free environment.
