While the value of pieces is sometimes a consideration, for jewelry enthusiasts worldwide, pride of ownership is usually the ultimate reason for acquiring the work of a well known designer or artisan. Jewelry by almost every well known jewelry designer may be found in specialized auctions at the large auction houses, and in galleries that cater to a discriminating clientele. Whether your interests are Georgian, Victorian, Art Deco or Arts and Crafts, if you are interested in jewelry, there will surely be a designer who suits your style, and your purse.

Perhaps the earliest of the designers we consider to be part of the modern era was Rene Jules Lalique (1860-1945). Lalique was the premier maker of rare Art Nouveau jewelry at the turn of the century. Popular themes included nature, animal, and female figure motifs. Lalique also worked with his personal favorite materials such as rock crystal, glass, and enamels. His pieces are often sold in Fine Jewelry auctions, and collectors can expect to pay prices into the tens of thousands of dollars.

Lalique Silver Brooch

Lalique silver and enamel brooch with baroque pearl drop c.1900 (Picture: DK Art Nouveau Guide, Judith Miller)

Schlumberger earrings

Picture caption: 1970s Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger diamond and gold earrings (Picture: DK Antiques Price Guide, Judith Miller)

Often featured at Fine Jewelry auctions at Sotheby’s, Skinner’s, or Doyle, for a few thousand dollars and up on the other hand, is the work of Jean Schlumberger. Schlumberger was born in Alsace, France in 1907. A Tiffany designer, he became well known for his use of yellow beryl, amethyst, emerald, sapphire and aquamarine to make bold jewelry statements. Though his work does not command quite the prices of Lalique, his collection of translucent paillonne enamel bracelets is treasured by collectors worldwide.

With the work of highly acclaimed American jewelry designer David Webb (1912-1975) all eyes turned to American style. While jewelry had traditionally been designed for an older, moneyed clientele, Webb’s work targeted the jet-setting young. Though influenced by ancient Greek and Roman forms as well as classical jewelry styles, his designs often featured exotic, non-traditional colored stones, bold designs depicting exotic animals, and striking enamels. Webb was renowned for his impeccable craftsmanship, and his pieces can sell for tens of thousands of dollars. For a preview of his collections and his classic designs of enamel and gold animals go to www.davidwebb.com.

Carrying the tradition of fine craftsmanship and bold design into the present day is Paloma Picasso, considered to be one of the world’s premier contemporary jewelry designers. Tiffany and Co. introduced her first exclusive collection of jewelry in 1980 and her collection was instantly recognized for her use of exotic gemstones and highly polished and unique textured surfaces with whimsical shapes using 18K gold and silver. Though her name is known worldwide and her work is sought after, Paloma Picasso’s pieces, available at Tiffany’s, sell for such a range of prices –the $100s to $1000s – that most collectors can still hope to acquire one.

Jensen Brooch

Picture caption: Silver Openwork brooch by Arno Malinovki for Georg Jensen c. 1930s

(Picture: DK Art Deco Guide, Judith Miller)

So these are the household names of designer jewelry; Lalique, Schlumberger, Webb, and Picasso, along with Georg Jensen, who founded his silversmith shop in Copenhagen in 1904, William Spratling (1900-1967) who was acknowledged as “The Father of Mexican Silver,” and C.H. Horner, a collectable name in English jewelry. They will, however, be out of range for many collectors, particularly those who are just starting out in this genre. Be assured that there are countless other artisans for a collector to consider. Designer jewelry in general has an international appeal which tends to hold its value and increase over time, so even if David Yurman is the new Coco Chanel, there is every indication that Chanel’s own vintage pieces will always be in demand and bring high prices. And when Yurman’s signature line of twisted sterling silver ropes is one day usurped by the next contender, his work will very likely still hold its value.

Designer Seaman Schepps is a shining example of longevity in the world of designer jewelry and was truly a bridge to the modern era. Born in New York in 1881 – a decade when the “Buffalo Bill Wild West Show” opened for its first performance and women wore full length dresses, corsets, and bustles – he lived until 1972, eight years after the introduction of Rudi Gernreich’s fist topless monokini. His work is still sought after and commands high prices today (for a review of his designs, one can visit his website at www.seamanschepps.com). Given the dramatic and tumultuous changes Schepps saw in his time, it is not surprising that he was known for his unique ability to juxtapose unusual materials, objects and bold color combinations. He combined polished and carved stones, fusions of precious and non-precious materials like gold and wood link bracelets, or shell and diamond earrings. Jewelry is primarily associated with women and, as such, has influenced or been influenced by the social history of women. Schepps’ work, for example, characterized a new approach to jewelry where independent women purchased their own jewelry for its bold personality and style.

If pieces by well known artists are beyond your range, the reasonable approach to buying designer jewelry is, of course, to buy what you like, but to always look for the best quality of workmanship using the finest gemstones, exceptional designs and fine attention to detail. Owning a few edgy pieces can be fun, even if they have less gold and less value. The outrageous and currently expensive pieces of designer Bob Ebendorf for example, made from flotsam on beaches and other found objects, have little intrinsic value but large visual and bragging appeal because they appear in museum collections.

As with all art, however, collecting works by unknowns or “newly knowns” is an exhilarating but sometimes risky business. It will be some time before anyone knows if the more trendy and edgy pieces like the beach flotsam of Bob Ebendorf will join Coco Chanel and Seaman Schepps in bringing high prices 50 years from now. Collectors of the more outrageous examples of contemporary jewelry will certainly have fun, and if the designer they have chosen becomes the current favorite, the value of pieces could soar. They also, however, assume a high level of risk of another kind when purchasing this kind of art; gold, silver, gemstones and enamels, especially when combined with fine workmanship, are inherently robust in nature. Museums are full of ancient pieces of jewelry in near perfect condition. This may not be true of those admittedly striking contemporary pieces that incorporate wood, plastics, crab claws, found objects and other materials of a more fragile nature. Be sure the prices you pay reflect the higher level of risk you are assuming.

Aficionados of artisan jewelry, like all collectors, enjoy the search, and will investigate both auction sales and gallery sales. The choice of the artist is, above all, related to the style and materials of the pieces, and is a question of taste. If the piece is not signed and you are purchasing from a reputable dealer, ask for a receipt or invoice stating that it was made by the artist in question. When buying from a private seller, check if they themselves originally purchased from a reputable dealer, and whether a receipt or other documentation of that transaction exits. In the absence of such documentation there is no receipt a private seller could offer you that would actually verify the maker of the piece. Again, proceed with caution, and be sure the purchase price reflects this increased risk.

Whether your jewelry is by a known or unknown artist, and whatever materials it is made of, for insurance valuation purposes an appraisal must take into account the workmanship, rarity of the materials used, and the limited production of an item. Currently, gold, platinum, and silver are at twenty-five year highs. Designer jewelry as well as any significant fine jewelry items that you own must be re-evaluated every three to five years to reflect price increases in precious metal or any other components. Of course, jewelry which is signed by a recognized artist will always be more desirable, and more valuable, than an unsigned piece, especially when it is the work of an important designer. If it is vintage or antique (over 100 years old) condition and age are also important factors.

Most collectors, even if they have never met their favorite jewelry designers, develop a long-term relationship with his or her work. For many, collecting the work of the designer becomes a passion that lasts a lifetime. And unlike collectors of painting or sculpture, jewelry collectors have the added benefit of being able to wear the works they own.

Brigitte Fletcher and Jeff Averbook can be reached at www.bfletcher-associates.com or by calling 617 228 4667.