Our Treasures

Textiles and garments need consistent low temperature, low or no light, little moisture, and dust, rust, and bug-free environments, and should be kept where you can inspect them annually. The obvious downsides to storing them in basements and attics include water leakage, temperature fluctuations, dust, dirt, and vermin. Air-tight plastic storage units prevent air flow, aggravating these conditions. Cedar closets, acid-free boxes and tissue paper, cedar-lined chests and wood cabinets are best for storing garments. Even small pieces of cedar can protect against bugs, but avoid moth balls, which produce unhealthy fumes.

Cleanliness Is Imperative

Stored vintage garments must be free of starch, perspiration, stains, dirt, rust and dust. Pre-industrial revolution, most dyes were made from fruits and vegetables, and textiles from this era must be segregated to prevent bleeding from one piece to another. (Although today’s dyes are more permanent, it is still wise to separate textiles by color.)

Rolling is better than hanging. Hangers put stress on the shoulders. For heavy garments where hanging is necessary, obtain extra-large padded hangers, or sew ribbon loops to the waistband to add support. Historically, most garments were rolled and stored in boxes, and because of their expense, lace, fur, buttons, zippers, sequins and beads were typically purchased separately, attached as needed, and removed when a garment was washed. In some cases, only the neck or collar, hem, and perspiration guard would be washed. If the garment’s shoulder area is covered in non-removable lace, netting or beads, definitely roll it.

Cleaning Textiles By Hand

When cleaning a garment the well-lit, dust-free kitchen sink and countertop are the best locations. On a clean, dry surface set down a white cotton sheet. Place the garment on it and pin around the edge to create an outline identifying its original shape. Using a magnifier, examine the entire garment, inside and out. Inspect all seams and edges. Look for broken threads, holes, tears and loose beads and notice if shoulder pads or ornamentation are pinned in place. Inspect the underside of buttons for rust. Take photos, front and back, especially if you must remove ornamentation before washing.

All repairs must be made before cleaning. Repair holes, tears, breaks or structural problems while the garment is dry – during the washing process the warp and weft of the textile expand and threads elongate, loose beads fall off, etc. Rust under buttons or on the fabric will only get rustier with water or cleaning fluid. If you are not certain how to make repairs, use a professional who offers these services.

“Repair holes, tears, breaks or structural problems before cleaning, while the garment is dry.” Photo courtesy Elinor Coleman.

Before cleaning remove any pins, metal, Bakelite, leather, plastic and rhinestone buttons, fur and feathers. Many older belts were backed with cardboard, which disintegrates if washed or dry cleaned.

To test the fabric, run a dampened Q-tip along the inside of a hem or seam to be sure the fabric doesn’t shrivel. Designs that are painted on require dry cleaning; test by carefully applying the damp Q-tip to a tiny outer edge of the pattern. With the magnifier see if the design fades or runs. Also test a single bead or sequin; many of these should not be exposed to water.

When in doubt, take the garment to the best dry cleaner available, especially those who are versed in the complexity of cleaning wedding dresses. If the garment is lined with a completely different fabric, dry clean it; the two different fabrics might shrink at different rates.

If dry cleaning is too expensive, vacuuming the garment, inside out, is a temporary alternative though this does not solve the problems of starch, perspiration, stains or rust. Use gaffer’s tape or a rubber band to fasten a clean piece of cheesecloth over the vacuum hose and keep the suction on low. Place the garment flat and use your free hand to hold it down on the counter top. Don’t vacuum a garment when it is on a hanger as the suction may tear it. Slowly and systematically run the hose in vertical lines the full length of the garment.

For hand washing, pour a tablespoon of hand dishwashing liquid and a little hot water into a clean kitchen sink. Then add cold water and swish. Place the textile on the lid of a plastic storage container that fits into the sink. The plastic lid provides support, preventing the fabric from stretching when wet. Flutter – don’t rub – the garment very gently for a few minutes. Remove the lid and garment, drain the sink and fill it with cold rinse water. If you see dye in the wash water, add several tablespoons of white vinegar to the first rinse. Put the lid and garment back into the sink and let them stand for a few minutes, then swish the rinse water.

“For hand washing, place the textile on the lid of a plastic storage container that fits into the sink .” Photo courtesy Elinor Coleman.

Repeat rinsing four or five times or until soap bubbles are gone. Slide the wet garment off the plastic lid and place it on a clean, white towel. Dark garments may run, so use an old towel. Roll the towel up loosely – don’t squeeze or twist it. Let the roll sit for a minute, absorbing the moisture.

Place the container lid under the cotton sheet you prepared earlier, unroll the towel and arrange the garment so fills in the outline of pins. Remove the pins and carry the lid, fabric cover and wet garment to a dust-free, flat drying surface. When dry, again inspect the inside and outside of the item. If stains remain, repeat the cleaning process, perhaps several times. It‘s the cleaning process – not scrubbing or rubbing – that removes stains.

Rolling Garments in Acid-Free Paper

Good sources for acid-free tissue paper are dry cleaners and wedding web sites. Put several overlapping sheets down on a clean table and place the garment in the middle with paper visible around the edges. For heavier garments use double sheets. Place overlapping tissue paper on top of the garment as well, then fold the sleeves into the middle or down along the sides.

“To roll a garment in tissue paper, put several overlapping sheets on a table and place the garment on it with paper visible around the edges. Place overlapping tissue paper on top of the garment as well.” Photo courtesy Elinor Coleman

Place a cardboard tube along the lower edge and roll the paper and garment a few loose turns. Remove the tube and roll up the rest. You may have to add another sheet or two of paper to protect the garment roll – no fabric should be showing.

If you did not sew belts and ornamentation back on the garment before you started rolling, place them in another tissue paper roll inside the end of the rolled garment. Add written notes about provenance (when the item was made, by whom, where, etc.) so that the garment, ornamentation and history are kept together. Rolls can be placed in an acid-free box, on a shelf or in a drawer. Totally enveloped in acid-free tissue paper, the garment won’t come in contact with cedar pieces or storage surfaces. For dust and bug-free storage, don’t use contact paper, shelf paper or any additional materials in a container or on a shelf.

Store similar colors and fabric types together to help keep track of them. Separate vegetable-dyed garments from chemical-dyed fabrics and synthetics such as dacron, nylon, polyester, and from cotton, silk, velvet, lace and wool. Fur and feathers should be stored separately. Furs need annual inspection by a furrier and cold storage during the summer months. Feathers must be sprayed regularly against air born bugs and stored in closed containers at all times, whereas all other fabrics need air circulation.

Buttons, rhinestone/crystal and Bakelite pins should be stored in jewelry boxes and separated according to materials. Again, they need circulating air, but no direct sunlight and everything must be dry, dust-free, rust-free and clean. Cardboard or wooden jewelry boxes or drawers work well, as do photo storage boxes. Rust or tarnish on metal items will spread, so isolate rusted items in a sealed baggie until you are able to clean them.

At least once a year go through the boxes and wipe down pearls, sterling silver, gold and gold vermillion items. Bakelite, lucite, plastic, jet, wood, glass, crystal and stones require separate storage, because each material has special cleaning and preservation needs. A dry soft cotton cloth or a dry toothbrush for cleaning is all you need. And if you wear the garments and use the textiles, clean them after each occasion. Plan alterations carefully in advance, and consult professional tailors who can recommend alternatives to cutting off any fabric.

Sharing This Project

You should start this process as soon as you can, while you and your family and friends can focus on this valued legacy. You will be able to share stories about the people who made, wore and celebrated life through these items – treasures that embody your family and community history. By having your friends and family help you in this process you may even gather more information. History is an ongoing process. Enjoy the journey.